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Post by etownrdnck on Aug 12, 2010 21:26:12 GMT -5
my door skin got ripped off during my derby what can i do to fix this or should i run it the way it is Attachments:
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Post by 96greenchevy on Aug 12, 2010 21:34:38 GMT -5
if you can find an old washer or dryer use the sides. cut to fit, bend and attach the best way you can: spot weld, tack weld or run small beads (if u dont burn through) , pop rivet, or tech screws lots of them
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Post by hardhitinu on Aug 12, 2010 21:45:46 GMT -5
I would do what 96greenchevy said either that or go cut another door skin off another car and over lap it with the front door skin either will work
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Post by helm024j on Aug 12, 2010 22:28:03 GMT -5
16 gauge flat steel works great and you can run a bead all the way around
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Post by 307ci on Aug 12, 2010 22:36:18 GMT -5
i know a guy taht bent and may a whole fender for a 64 imp one time out of 14 gauge,,,, works great, not to heavy not to light
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Post by etownrdnck on Aug 13, 2010 7:16:19 GMT -5
thanks guys for the tips ill have to try some of these outs i have till next year but i want to fix this one so i can build another. thanks again
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Post by scooter24d on Aug 13, 2010 9:05:09 GMT -5
I think i would just get another door and put it on less work that way (jmo)
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Post by etownrdnck on Aug 13, 2010 10:53:28 GMT -5
thats not a bad ideal either i thought about that to
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Post by 96greenchevy on Aug 14, 2010 23:45:22 GMT -5
i wasnt sure where to post this question but it does have sumthing to do with doors so i guess here would be ok. my question is: is it better to weld the door gaps with a 4" long piece of flat bar thats around 2" wide or is it better to just weld them to the post, fender, and at the back of the back doors(on 4 door cars) directly?
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Post by helm024j on Aug 15, 2010 1:42:04 GMT -5
i wasnt sure where to post this question but it does have sumthing to do with doors so i guess here would be ok. my question is: is it better to weld the door gaps with a 4" long piece of flat bar thats around 2" wide or is it better to just weld them to the post, fender, and at the back of the back doors(on 4 door cars) directly? i prefer to strap my doors its faster and holds better jmo,u can also weld ur seam then weld ur strap over that ;D
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Post by etownrdnck on Aug 15, 2010 7:42:30 GMT -5
i wasnt sure where to post this question but it does have sumthing to do with doors so i guess here would be ok. my question is: is it better to weld the door gaps with a 4" long piece of flat bar thats around 2" wide or is it better to just weld them to the post, fender, and at the back of the back doors(on 4 door cars) directly? at our derby stoney roberts allowed to have the steel plates but i also noticed a car had their drivers door completely welded top to bottom on both seems run idk if you want to take the chance. all i did this year was chain mine and it held fine no doors came open or any thing. But what i do is after i shut the door is i lock the door and then break of the locking mechanisin thats on the inside. jmo
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Post by scooter24d on Aug 15, 2010 8:30:23 GMT -5
This is how i did mine 3'' straps but that is for a team car the regular rules allow 3'' long straps every 10'' it works good driver door can be fully welded.
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Post by etownrdnck on Aug 15, 2010 10:10:46 GMT -5
wish we could run something like that on all of our doors only we thing we can do is chain or 3 4" welds
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Post by 96greenchevy on Aug 15, 2010 14:24:46 GMT -5
yea our derby is the same way as etowns the same promotor, i did call them and was told i could do a fuul weld on the drivers door and the rules say 3 4" welds i think i may weld the gap then cover with a piece of 2 inch flat bar about 3.5" long so then the total lenth will be 4" and will probly do sum 9 wire in between the welds and also do the 9 wire on the hood to fenders of course. thank you guys for the advice.
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Post by etownrdnck on Aug 15, 2010 15:18:38 GMT -5
do you think they would let me nine wire my fenders and the front end.
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